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Computerizing your pattern drafting

by sued on September 3rd, 2011 at 10:25 am
Posted In: Computerized Drafting
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There are several vector graphics programs out that will work to draft patterns on screen. Adobe Illustrator and Corel Draw are two of the common ones available commercially. Inkscape is an open source free alternative that can also do the job it just depends on your skills and budget.

Personally I use Corel Draw and have since version 4. Corel Draw has come a long way since then and I’m currently using version 12 which I love and fits my budget. The newer versions I’m sure have more bells and whistles but I only need a few tools.

Plain lines

Plain curves

Bezier curves

Shapes variety

Contours

Line thickness

Measurement tools

Node edits

Zoom

Layers

Colors

PDF file formatting

Text both art and paragraph

I’ll go into some of these tools in more depth soon. Illustrator and Inkscape have these common tools as well and there are likely other vector programs that I don’t know about. If you have a favorite drop me a line in the comments below.

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Quick & easy tip

by sued on November 15th, 2010 at 1:34 pm
Posted In: Tutorials, Tips & Tricks, Tutorials
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Sewing on buttons, hooks & snaps can be tricky and if not done right can look horrible after a while. Threads has a great tutorial resource that gives great tips for beautiful hooks, snaps and buttons! I just had to share it as it applies to all kinds of sewing not just dolls!

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Sue Darby
~www.suestinycostumes.com

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French Curves for Dolls

by sued on September 3rd, 2010 at 8:26 pm
Posted In: Tutorials, Pattern Drafting, Tutorials, Tips & Tricks
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Ever wondered where to get small pattern drafting tools suitable for doll clothes pattern making? You can find a French Curve Set fairly easily actually. After some quick looking

around I found a great set that works not only for dolls but if you sew for yourself can actually come in handy for drafting full size patterns as well!

Why would you want a curve set when found items work just as well? I have found that you can get better results with the smooth edges of an actual French Curve Set versus using a plate, plastic tape dispenser, the curve of your mouse, various coins, jars and other interesting oddities. With a set like this one or more of the curves is very likely to fit what you need and it’s easy to use them to quickly draw the line smoothly. Over time I’ve bought each curve individually and wish I could have found a set like this before now!

This is one of those indispensable items for the doll nut who loves to design and draft or just alter patterns for dolls!

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Sue Darby
~www.suestinycostumes.com

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└ Tags: Pattern Drafting, resources, supplies, Tips & Tricks
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Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Glossary Terms

by sued on July 17th, 2010 at 12:00 pm
Posted In: Crash Course, Tutorials, Moved from the Main Site, Tutorials, Pattern Drafting, Tutorials
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Glossary of Terms

Abdomen- area between the waist and hips around the belly button area

Abdomen arc- 1/4 of the total circumference of the fattest part

Apex- the doll’s nipple if she has one or the tip of her breast

Arc- 1/4 of complete circumference measurement

Banana dart- a dart that looks like a straight up and down banana

Basic block- your pattern that you drafted from your measurements it has no design to it

Bias grain- the diagonal of the fabric and your grain line is lined up with it for a different drape

Blend- making separate lines look like 1 continuous one

Bust- chest level on a child or man or the breasts of a lady doll

Bust arc- the distance from the flat ribs below the bust to the apex

Bust bridge- distance between apexes

Cap ease – difference between cap and armhole measurement

Cap- height distance from biceps to cap at center

Center back- center of the back usually where there would be a spine

Center front -center of the front of a doll where there would normally be a breast bone

Circumference- distance around somewhere

Cloth body- the body is made of cloth and is very soft and huggable.

Composition body- the body I made of a plastic substance and does not squish when you hug your doll

Cross grain- grain running from selvage to selvage

Crotch- area where a drink and wet doll wets and where panties would normally go

Dart intake- the extra added to a pattern so that when you sew the dart it doesn’t end up too small

Dart leg- one of the lines that makes up a dart

Dart point- the tip of the dart

Darts- used to fit a garment close to the body primarily for lady dolls but can be used on children or men but never on a baby.

Drape- holding and pinning a piece of fabric up to a doll and pinching the material until it fits then marking where darts are and making a basic pattern from
the fabric markings in a connect-the-dots style.

Ease- the extra bit of room that allows you to dress the doll without breaking her

Elbow level – elbow of doll

Finger span- the distance around all the fingers at the largest point

French curve- plastic tool used to draw curves various sizes are available including ones specifically for dolls

Grade- to enlarge or shrink an current pattern

Grading- the act of enlarging or shrinking a pattern

Grain line- center of garment running normally from top to bottom of piece

Hip arc- 1/4 of the total hip measurement

Horizontal balance lines or HBL- horizontal lines used as a basis of where the bust waist and hip lie so that measuring is more accurate and easier

Notches- used at the armhole and top of sleeve to ensure that the sleeve doesn’t end up crooked when sewn

Porcelain body- made of porcelain doesn’t squish and is very hard similar to a composition body only very fragile

Princess line- the style of a pattern where the bodice or skirt has been split into 2 pieces for each quarter of the body

Raglan- a style where the sleeve doesn’t come from the shoulder tip but from the neck shoulder junction as in a sweatshirt

Right angle or RT angle- a 90-degree angle commonly found at necklines centers side seams and armhole bottoms

Rulers- measuring tool

Seam- sewn together pieces of fabric to form 1 piece

Seam allowance or S/A- allowance of extra fabric so that your sewing machine has a little extra to grab on to when it tries to feed your fabric through.

Sleeve cap -the curved top section of the sleeve from the front to the back

Sleeve ease- the added room needed to allow the arm to move if necessary

Straight grain- the vertical grain of the fabric

Style lines- various lines made on patterns to create a new look or design

Torso- the body part of a doll with out the head, arms, or legs.

Truing the pattern- checking to be sure that all areas match up side seams are the same length, shoulder seams are the same etc.

Waist arc- 1/4 of the total waist circumference measurement

Wrist level- the bottom hemline area of a sleeve, level with the wrist of the arm

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Sue Darby
~www.suestinycostumes.com

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Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Truing Up Your Patterns

by sued on July 16th, 2010 at 12:00 pm
Posted In: Crash Course, Tutorials, Moved from the Main Site, Tutorials, Pattern Drafting, Tutorials
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Truing Patterns

This will explain how to smooth out your patterns in preparation for use in creating styles from the basic patterns.

The first draft of each piece should be carefully cut apart and the following places checked for accuracy and 90 degree angles on both your front and the back
The first draft of each piece should be carefully cut apart and the following places checked for accuracy and 90 degree angles

Feel free to ask questions or comment on this tutorial.

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Sue Darby
~www.suestinycostumes.com

NEW! Find me on FaceBook Sue's Tiny Costumes

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