Sewing on buttons, hooks & snaps can be tricky and if not done right can look horrible after a while. Threads has a great tutorial resource that gives great tips for beautiful hooks, snaps and buttons! I just had to share it as it applies to all kinds of sewing not just dolls!
Ever wondered where to get small pattern drafting tools suitable for doll clothes pattern making? You can find a French Curve Set 
around I found a great set that works not only for dolls but if you sew for yourself can actually come in handy for drafting full size patterns as well!
Why would you want a curve set when found items work just as well? I have found that you can get better results with the smooth edges of an actual French Curve Set
This is one of those indispensable items for the doll nut who loves to design and draft or just alter patterns for dolls!
Glossary of Terms
| Abdomen- area between the waist and hips around the belly button area
Abdomen arc- 1/4 of the total circumference of the fattest part Apex- the doll’s nipple if she has one or the tip of her breast Arc- 1/4 of complete circumference measurement |
| Banana dart- a dart that looks like a straight up and down banana
Basic block- your pattern that you drafted from your measurements it has no design to it Bias grain- the diagonal of the fabric and your grain line is lined up with it for a different drape Blend- making separate lines look like 1 continuous one Bust- chest level on a child or man or the breasts of a lady doll Bust arc- the distance from the flat ribs below the bust to the apex Bust bridge- distance between apexes |
| Cap ease – difference between cap and armhole measurement
Cap- height distance from biceps to cap at center Center back- center of the back usually where there would be a spine Center front -center of the front of a doll where there would normally be a breast bone Circumference- distance around somewhere Cloth body- the body is made of cloth and is very soft and huggable. Composition body- the body I made of a plastic substance and does not squish when you hug your doll Cross grain- grain running from selvage to selvage Crotch- area where a drink and wet doll wets and where panties would normally go |
| Dart intake- the extra added to a pattern so that when you sew the dart it doesn’t end up too small
Dart leg- one of the lines that makes up a dart Dart point- the tip of the dart Darts- used to fit a garment close to the body primarily for lady dolls but can be used on children or men but never on a baby. Drape- holding and pinning a piece of fabric up to a doll and pinching the material until it fits then marking where darts are and making a basic pattern from |
| Ease- the extra bit of room that allows you to dress the doll without breaking her
Elbow level – elbow of doll Finger span- the distance around all the fingers at the largest point French curve- plastic tool used to draw curves various sizes are available including ones specifically for dolls |
| Grade- to enlarge or shrink an current pattern
Grading- the act of enlarging or shrinking a pattern Grain line- center of garment running normally from top to bottom of piece |
| Hip arc- 1/4 of the total hip measurement
Horizontal balance lines or HBL- horizontal lines used as a basis of where the bust waist and hip lie so that measuring is more accurate and easier Notches- used at the armhole and top of sleeve to ensure that the sleeve doesn’t end up crooked when sewn Porcelain body- made of porcelain doesn’t squish and is very hard similar to a composition body only very fragile Princess line- the style of a pattern where the bodice or skirt has been split into 2 pieces for each quarter of the body |
| Raglan- a style where the sleeve doesn’t come from the shoulder tip but from the neck shoulder junction as in a sweatshirt
Right angle or RT angle- a 90-degree angle commonly found at necklines centers side seams and armhole bottoms Rulers- measuring tool |
| Seam- sewn together pieces of fabric to form 1 piece
Seam allowance or S/A- allowance of extra fabric so that your sewing machine has a little extra to grab on to when it tries to feed your fabric through. Sleeve cap -the curved top section of the sleeve from the front to the back Sleeve ease- the added room needed to allow the arm to move if necessary Straight grain- the vertical grain of the fabric Style lines- various lines made on patterns to create a new look or design |
| Torso- the body part of a doll with out the head, arms, or legs.
Truing the pattern- checking to be sure that all areas match up side seams are the same length, shoulder seams are the same etc. Waist arc- 1/4 of the total waist circumference measurement Wrist level- the bottom hemline area of a sleeve, level with the wrist of the arm |