Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Glossary Terms
on July 17th, 2010 at 12:00 pm
Glossary of Terms
| Abdomen- area between the waist and hips around the belly button area
Abdomen arc- 1/4 of the total circumference of the fattest part Apex- the doll’s nipple if she has one or the tip of her breast Arc- 1/4 of complete circumference measurement |
| Banana dart- a dart that looks like a straight up and down banana
Basic block- your pattern that you drafted from your measurements it has no design to it Bias grain- the diagonal of the fabric and your grain line is lined up with it for a different drape Blend- making separate lines look like 1 continuous one Bust- chest level on a child or man or the breasts of a lady doll Bust arc- the distance from the flat ribs below the bust to the apex Bust bridge- distance between apexes |
| Cap ease – difference between cap and armhole measurement
Cap- height distance from biceps to cap at center Center back- center of the back usually where there would be a spine Center front -center of the front of a doll where there would normally be a breast bone Circumference- distance around somewhere Cloth body- the body is made of cloth and is very soft and huggable. Composition body- the body I made of a plastic substance and does not squish when you hug your doll Cross grain- grain running from selvage to selvage Crotch- area where a drink and wet doll wets and where panties would normally go |
| Dart intake- the extra added to a pattern so that when you sew the dart it doesn’t end up too small
Dart leg- one of the lines that makes up a dart Dart point- the tip of the dart Darts- used to fit a garment close to the body primarily for lady dolls but can be used on children or men but never on a baby. Drape- holding and pinning a piece of fabric up to a doll and pinching the material until it fits then marking where darts are and making a basic pattern from |
| Ease- the extra bit of room that allows you to dress the doll without breaking her
Elbow level – elbow of doll Finger span- the distance around all the fingers at the largest point French curve- plastic tool used to draw curves various sizes are available including ones specifically for dolls |
| Grade- to enlarge or shrink an current pattern
Grading- the act of enlarging or shrinking a pattern Grain line- center of garment running normally from top to bottom of piece |
| Hip arc- 1/4 of the total hip measurement
Horizontal balance lines or HBL- horizontal lines used as a basis of where the bust waist and hip lie so that measuring is more accurate and easier Notches- used at the armhole and top of sleeve to ensure that the sleeve doesn’t end up crooked when sewn Porcelain body- made of porcelain doesn’t squish and is very hard similar to a composition body only very fragile Princess line- the style of a pattern where the bodice or skirt has been split into 2 pieces for each quarter of the body |
| Raglan- a style where the sleeve doesn’t come from the shoulder tip but from the neck shoulder junction as in a sweatshirt
Right angle or RT angle- a 90-degree angle commonly found at necklines centers side seams and armhole bottoms Rulers- measuring tool |
| Seam- sewn together pieces of fabric to form 1 piece
Seam allowance or S/A- allowance of extra fabric so that your sewing machine has a little extra to grab on to when it tries to feed your fabric through. Sleeve cap -the curved top section of the sleeve from the front to the back Sleeve ease- the added room needed to allow the arm to move if necessary Straight grain- the vertical grain of the fabric Style lines- various lines made on patterns to create a new look or design |
| Torso- the body part of a doll with out the head, arms, or legs.
Truing the pattern- checking to be sure that all areas match up side seams are the same length, shoulder seams are the same etc. Waist arc- 1/4 of the total waist circumference measurement Wrist level- the bottom hemline area of a sleeve, level with the wrist of the arm |
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