Sues Tiny Costumes Tutorials

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Torso Draft

by sued on July 15th, 2010 at 12:00 pm

Posted In: Crash Course, Tutorials, Moved from the Main Site, Tutorials, Pattern Drafting, Tutorials

Torso Skirt
Check to be sure your skirt and bodice waists are the same and adjust slightly if necessary

Trace your bodice front except for the waist. Only mark where it is	Line up the center front/back of the bodice and skirt and the side seams.	Trace the skirt.	Blend the waist.
Repeat for back with side seam allowance

Torso Pants
Check to be sure your pant and bodice waists are the same and adjust slightly if necessary

Trace your bodice front except for the waist. Only mark where it is.	Line up the center front/back of the bodice and pant and the side seams.	Trace the pant.	Blend the waistline.
Repeat for back

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Sleeve

by sued on July 14th, 2010 at 12:00 pm

Posted In: Crash Course, Tutorials, Moved from the Main Site, Tutorials, Pattern Drafting, Tutorials

Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart.

Sleeve Length		Finger Span
Upper Arm		Sleeve Cap Bottom Marks
Wrist		Sleeve Cap Top Marks

1) Sleeve length-Otherwise referred to as center	2) Cap height-1/3 of sleeve length marked and squared out from the top, 1/2 of the upper arm measurement	3) Wrist or finger span-Mark out 1/2 of the wrist or finger span (whichever is larger) to either side of center	4) Sleeve sides-Connect cap height to wrist level, forming the sides of the sleeve.

5) Sleeve cap bottom marks- 1/8 of upper arm measurement marked from the outside in and up according to Miniature Draft Chart for your size doll	6) Sleeve cap top-Square out to either side	7) Sleeve cap top marks – Using the same 1/8 of upper arm from the bottom marks, mark from the center out and down according to the Miniature Draft Chartfor your size doll.	8 ) Sleeve cap mid marks- Measure diagonally from the tips of the small marks and divide in half. Mark.

9) Sleeve cap curve- Form sleeve cap by using your French curve to connect the side to the bottom mark tip, then to the mid point, up to the top and down the other side.
Alternate Sleeve
Measurements Needed Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart
Sleeve length		Armhole circumference****
****Armhole circumference- measure your finished bodice pattern’s armhole from shoulder tip to shoulder tip
Armhole Circumference	X2	X length	= light gathers
Armhole Circumference	X3	X length	= medium gathers
Armhole Circumference	X4	X length	= very gathered
Only does puff sleeves that are gathered at the top and then pulled in by way of elastic at the wrist
*Determine how full you want the sleeve (see chart)
*Measure from shoulder tip around elbow to wrist this will be your sleeve length
*Measure your armhole of your basic block
*Multiply the armhole circumference by desired fullness (see chart) draw first line as the sleeve length
*Label sleeve length
*Square out to one side only the distance of the armhole circumference from the top and the bottom
*Now draw the other sleeve length line
*Your result will be a rectangle that is your desired fullness wide by your dolls arm length long. From here you can add seam allowance to the top and bottom length and gather to fit.
*This sleeve draft ONLY makes a puff long or short sleeve.

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Pants Child

by sued on July 13th, 2010 at 12:00 pm

Posted In: Crash Course, Tutorials, Moved from the Main Site, Tutorials, Pattern Drafting, Tutorials

Waist To Ankle (Inseam)	Waist Arc
Crotch Depth	Hip Depth
Outseam

1) Side seam- pants length. Square out at top &
bottom to both sides

2) Side hip depth- measure down and square
out to both sides

3) Crotch depth- measure down from top
crotch depth and square out to both sides

4) Waist to knee- square out to both
sides

5) Center back- formula: waist arc +
dart intake (see Miniature Draft Chart) + ease (see
Miniature
Draft Chart)

6) Back hip arc- from center back towards side seam

7) Back hip depth- from hip line measure
up and mark

8 ) Crotch bisect- at crotch level bisect
(45° angle) and mark out according to
Miniature Draft Chart)

9) Crotch curve- using your French curve
draw a curve from the mid-point to the crotch line
touching the tip of the bisect

10) ) Hip- Draw in hip line with French
curve

11) Center front- formula: waist arc + dart intake
(see
Miniature
Draft Chart) + ease (see
Miniature Draft Chart)

12) front hip arc- from center front
towards side seam

13) Back hip depth- from hip line measure
up and mark

14) Crotch bisect- at crotch level bisect
(45° angle) and mark out according to Miniature Draft Chart

15) Crotch curve- using your French curve
draw a curve from the mid-point to the crotch line
touching the tip of the bisect

16) Hip- Draw in hip line with French
curve

17) Inseam (crotch side)- square down
to bottom Inseam measurement Outseam (side seam) -From
Crotch level measure down Outseam measurement. The
distance between the lines at the bottom should be
no smaller than the Around Foot measurement.

18) Inseam (crotch side)- square down
to bottom Outseam (side seam) -measure over around
foot measurement and mark connect mark to crotch level
line

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Skirt Children

by sued on July 12th, 2010 at 12:00 pm

Posted In: Crash Course, Tutorials, Moved from the Main Site, Tutorials, Pattern Drafting, Tutorials

Here is a continuation of the Pattern Drafting Crash Course. A basic straight skirt and a bonus fuller skirt.

Measurements Needed
Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart
Waist Arc	Hip Depth	Front	Back
Hip Arc	Side Hip Depth

1) Skirt Length- side seam	2) Side or Back Hip Depth (whichever is deeper)- square out to either side to the left back hip arc and to the right front hip arc	3) Back Hip Arc- at top square out back hip arc	4) Center Back- square out back hip arc at bottom and then connect from top to bottom to form center back

5) Back Hip Depth-Should be only slightly shorter than side hip depth, mark in. If you used Back Hip Depth in step 2 use Hip Depth here.	6) Back Waist Arc- from center back line towards side seam Formula: waist arc + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart)	7) Hip Line- curve from mark to hip level	8 ) Waist Line- curve from back hip mark to hip

9) Front Hip Arc- front hip arc. At top square out then square out front hip arc at bottom and connect from top to bottom to form center front	10) Front Waist Arc- from center front line towards side seam Formula: waist arc + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart )	11) Hip Line- curve from mark to hip level	12) Front Hip Depth – Should be only slightly shorter than side hip depth, mark in
13) Waist Line- curve from front hip mark to hip

This is a bonus skirt draft for a plain skirt that goes well with a simple
bodice and can be as full as can fit around the doll’s waist.

Alternate Skirt

2X	Waist	X Length	=Light Gathers
3X	Waist	X Length	=Normal Gathers
4X	Waist	X Length	=Full Gathers
5X	Waist	X Length	=Lots of Gathers

Measurements Needed

Skirt Length

Skirt Width****

****Skirt width- the amount of gathers you want (see chart above)

Determine skirt length

Multiply waist measurement by how full you want the skirt to be (see
chart)

Draw 1 skirt length line

Square out full skirt width from top and bottom

Draw opposite skirt length line

Pattern Drafting Crash Course-Child Bodice

by sued on July 11th, 2010 at 12:00 pm

Posted In: Crash Course, Tutorials, Pattern Drafting, Tutorials

Here is the start of the actual drafts. You will need to reference the Miniature Draft Chart for the ease necessary for the draft. Right now I am waiting for the Miniature Draft Chart to post and will update the links to it after it does!

Measurements Needed
Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart
Full Length – Front	Back	Waist Arc
Shoulder Slope		Side Seam Length
Across Shoulder		Side Seam Allowance
Center Length – Front	Back	Mid-armhole Mark
Ease


1) Full Length- a straight line the length of your full length measurement	2) Across Shoulder- from the top of the full length line across the amount of your across shoulder measurement	3) Guideline- square down approximately 1/2 of the full length amount	4) Center Length- measure from the bottom of the full length line up and square in approximately 1/2 of across shoulder measurement

5) Shoulder Slope-from bottom corner to guideline	6) Shoulder- from tip of shoulder slope to across shoulder	7) shoulder to center length guideline and bisected (for bisect amount see Miniature Draft Chart)	8 ) Neck Curve Part B- from partway along previously squared line touching tip of bisect to almost center front. Leave 1/4″ square with center front line.

9) Waist- Formula: waist arc + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart)	10) Side Seam -square up from waist side seam length	11) Mid-armhole Mark-measure from shoulder tip to top of side seam line and divide in 1/2. Mark out (see Miniature Draft Chart)	12) Armhole Curve-connect shoulder tip, end of mid-armhole mark and top of side seam in a curve, maneuvering your French curve until it fits.

13) Waist- Formula: waist arc + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart)	14) Center Back Full Length- a straight line the length of your full length measurement	15) Across Back Shoulder- from the top of the full length line across the amount of your across shoulder measurement	16) Guideline- square down approximately 1/2 of the full length amount

17) Center Back Length- Measure from the bottom of the full length line up and square in approximately 1/2 of across shoulder measurement	18) Shoulder Slope-from bottom corner to guideline	19) Shoulder-from tip of shoulder slope to across shoulder	20) Neck Curve Part A- squared down from shoulder to center length guideline and bisected (for bisect amount see Miniature Draft Chart)

21) Neck Curve Part B- from partway along previously squared line touching tip of bisect to almost center front. Leave 1/4″ square with center front line.	22) Mid-armhole Mark- measure from shoulder tip to top of side seam line and divide in 1/2. Mark out (see Miniature Draft Chart)	23) Armhole Curve- connect shoulder tip, end of mid-armhole mark and top of side seam in a curve, maneuvering your French curve until it fits.	24) Mark side seam allowance to either side of side seam line

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Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Torso Draft

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Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Torso Draft

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Pattern Drafting Crash Course-Child Bodice

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