Sues Tiny Costumes Tutorials » Tutorials

Quick & easy tip

sued — Mon, 15 Nov 2010 22:34:21 +0000

Sewing on buttons, hooks & snaps can be tricky and if not done right can look horrible after a while. Threads has a great tutorial resource that gives great tips for beautiful hooks, snaps and buttons! I just had to share it as it applies to all kinds of sewing not just dolls!

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Glossary Terms

sued — Sat, 17 Jul 2010 20:00:04 +0000

Glossary of Terms

Abdomen- area between the waist and hips around the belly button area

Abdomen arc- 1/4 of the total circumference of the fattest part

Apex- the doll’s nipple if she has one or the tip of her breast

Arc- 1/4 of complete circumference measurement

Banana dart- a dart that looks like a straight up and down banana

Basic block- your pattern that you drafted from your measurements it has no design to it

Bias grain- the diagonal of the fabric and your grain line is lined up with it for a different drape

Blend- making separate lines look like 1 continuous one

Bust- chest level on a child or man or the breasts of a lady doll

Bust arc- the distance from the flat ribs below the bust to the apex

Bust bridge- distance between apexes

Cap ease – difference between cap and armhole measurement

Cap- height distance from biceps to cap at center

Center back- center of the back usually where there would be a spine

Center front -center of the front of a doll where there would normally be a breast bone

Circumference- distance around somewhere

Cloth body- the body is made of cloth and is very soft and huggable.

Composition body- the body I made of a plastic substance and does not squish when you hug your doll

Cross grain- grain running from selvage to selvage

Crotch- area where a drink and wet doll wets and where panties would normally go

Dart intake- the extra added to a pattern so that when you sew the dart it doesn’t end up too small

Dart leg- one of the lines that makes up a dart

Dart point- the tip of the dart

Darts- used to fit a garment close to the body primarily for lady dolls but can be used on children or men but never on a baby.

Drape- holding and pinning a piece of fabric up to a doll and pinching the material until it fits then marking where darts are and making a basic pattern from
the fabric markings in a connect-the-dots style.

Ease- the extra bit of room that allows you to dress the doll without breaking her

Elbow level – elbow of doll

Finger span- the distance around all the fingers at the largest point

French curve- plastic tool used to draw curves various sizes are available including ones specifically for dolls

Grade- to enlarge or shrink an current pattern

Grading- the act of enlarging or shrinking a pattern

Grain line- center of garment running normally from top to bottom of piece

Hip arc- 1/4 of the total hip measurement

Horizontal balance lines or HBL- horizontal lines used as a basis of where the bust waist and hip lie so that measuring is more accurate and easier

Notches- used at the armhole and top of sleeve to ensure that the sleeve doesn’t end up crooked when sewn

Porcelain body- made of porcelain doesn’t squish and is very hard similar to a composition body only very fragile

Princess line- the style of a pattern where the bodice or skirt has been split into 2 pieces for each quarter of the body

Raglan- a style where the sleeve doesn’t come from the shoulder tip but from the neck shoulder junction as in a sweatshirt

Right angle or RT angle- a 90-degree angle commonly found at necklines centers side seams and armhole bottoms

Rulers- measuring tool

Seam- sewn together pieces of fabric to form 1 piece

Seam allowance or S/A- allowance of extra fabric so that your sewing machine has a little extra to grab on to when it tries to feed your fabric through.

Sleeve cap -the curved top section of the sleeve from the front to the back

Sleeve ease- the added room needed to allow the arm to move if necessary

Straight grain- the vertical grain of the fabric

Style lines- various lines made on patterns to create a new look or design

Torso- the body part of a doll with out the head, arms, or legs.

Truing the pattern- checking to be sure that all areas match up side seams are the same length, shoulder seams are the same etc.

Waist arc- 1/4 of the total waist circumference measurement

Wrist level- the bottom hemline area of a sleeve, level with the wrist of the arm

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Truing Up Your Patterns

sued — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:00:03 +0000

Truing Patterns

This will explain how to smooth out your patterns in preparation for use in creating styles from the basic patterns.


The first draft of each piece should be carefully cut apart and the following places checked for accuracy and 90 degree angles on both your front and the back

The first draft of each piece should be carefully cut apart and the following places checked for accuracy and 90 degree angles

Feel free to ask questions or comment on this tutorial.

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Torso Draft

sued — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 20:00:30 +0000

Torso Skirt
Check to be sure your skirt and bodice waists are the same and adjust slightly if necessary

Trace your bodice front except for the waist. Only mark where it is	Line up the center front/back of the bodice and skirt and the side seams.	Trace the skirt.	Blend the waist.
Repeat for back with side seam allowance

Torso Pants
Check to be sure your pant and bodice waists are the same and adjust slightly if necessary

Trace your bodice front except for the waist. Only mark where it is.	Line up the center front/back of the bodice and pant and the side seams.	Trace the pant.	Blend the waistline.
Repeat for back

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Sleeve

sued — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 20:00:23 +0000

Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart.

Sleeve Length		Finger Span
Upper Arm		Sleeve Cap Bottom Marks
Wrist		Sleeve Cap Top Marks

1) Sleeve length-Otherwise referred to as center	2) Cap height-1/3 of sleeve length marked and squared out from the top, 1/2 of the upper arm measurement	3) Wrist or finger span-Mark out 1/2 of the wrist or finger span (whichever is larger) to either side of center	4) Sleeve sides-Connect cap height to wrist level, forming the sides of the sleeve.

5) Sleeve cap bottom marks- 1/8 of upper arm measurement marked from the outside in and up according to Miniature Draft Chart for your size doll	6) Sleeve cap top-Square out to either side	7) Sleeve cap top marks – Using the same 1/8 of upper arm from the bottom marks, mark from the center out and down according to the Miniature Draft Chartfor your size doll.	8 ) Sleeve cap mid marks- Measure diagonally from the tips of the small marks and divide in half. Mark.

9) Sleeve cap curve- Form sleeve cap by using your French curve to connect the side to the bottom mark tip, then to the mid point, up to the top and down the other side.
Alternate Sleeve
Measurements Needed Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart
Sleeve length		Armhole circumference****
****Armhole circumference- measure your finished bodice pattern’s armhole from shoulder tip to shoulder tip
Armhole Circumference	X2	X length	= light gathers
Armhole Circumference	X3	X length	= medium gathers
Armhole Circumference	X4	X length	= very gathered
Only does puff sleeves that are gathered at the top and then pulled in by way of elastic at the wrist
*Determine how full you want the sleeve (see chart)
*Measure from shoulder tip around elbow to wrist this will be your sleeve length
*Measure your armhole of your basic block
*Multiply the armhole circumference by desired fullness (see chart) draw first line as the sleeve length
*Label sleeve length
*Square out to one side only the distance of the armhole circumference from the top and the bottom
*Now draw the other sleeve length line
*Your result will be a rectangle that is your desired fullness wide by your dolls arm length long. From here you can add seam allowance to the top and bottom length and gather to fit.
*This sleeve draft ONLY makes a puff long or short sleeve.

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Pants Child

sued — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 20:00:44 +0000

Waist To Ankle (Inseam)	Waist Arc
Crotch Depth	Hip Depth
Outseam

1) Side seam- pants length. Square out at top &
bottom to both sides

2) Side hip depth- measure down and square
out to both sides

3) Crotch depth- measure down from top
crotch depth and square out to both sides

4) Waist to knee- square out to both
sides

5) Center back- formula: waist arc +
dart intake (see Miniature Draft Chart) + ease (see
Miniature
Draft Chart)

6) Back hip arc- from center back towards side seam

7) Back hip depth- from hip line measure
up and mark

8 ) Crotch bisect- at crotch level bisect
(45° angle) and mark out according to
Miniature Draft Chart)

9) Crotch curve- using your French curve
draw a curve from the mid-point to the crotch line
touching the tip of the bisect

10) ) Hip- Draw in hip line with French
curve

11) Center front- formula: waist arc + dart intake
(see
Miniature
Draft Chart) + ease (see
Miniature Draft Chart)

12) front hip arc- from center front
towards side seam

13) Back hip depth- from hip line measure
up and mark

14) Crotch bisect- at crotch level bisect
(45° angle) and mark out according to Miniature Draft Chart

15) Crotch curve- using your French curve
draw a curve from the mid-point to the crotch line
touching the tip of the bisect

16) Hip- Draw in hip line with French
curve

17) Inseam (crotch side)- square down
to bottom Inseam measurement Outseam (side seam) -From
Crotch level measure down Outseam measurement. The
distance between the lines at the bottom should be
no smaller than the Around Foot measurement.

18) Inseam (crotch side)- square down
to bottom Outseam (side seam) -measure over around
foot measurement and mark connect mark to crotch level
line

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Skirt Children

sued — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 20:00:42 +0000

Here is a continuation of the Pattern Drafting Crash Course. A basic straight skirt and a bonus fuller skirt.

Measurements Needed
Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart
Waist Arc	Hip Depth	Front	Back
Hip Arc	Side Hip Depth

1) Skirt Length- side seam	2) Side or Back Hip Depth (whichever is deeper)- square out to either side to the left back hip arc and to the right front hip arc	3) Back Hip Arc- at top square out back hip arc	4) Center Back- square out back hip arc at bottom and then connect from top to bottom to form center back

5) Back Hip Depth-Should be only slightly shorter than side hip depth, mark in. If you used Back Hip Depth in step 2 use Hip Depth here.	6) Back Waist Arc- from center back line towards side seam Formula: waist arc + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart)	7) Hip Line- curve from mark to hip level	8 ) Waist Line- curve from back hip mark to hip

9) Front Hip Arc- front hip arc. At top square out then square out front hip arc at bottom and connect from top to bottom to form center front	10) Front Waist Arc- from center front line towards side seam Formula: waist arc + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart )	11) Hip Line- curve from mark to hip level	12) Front Hip Depth – Should be only slightly shorter than side hip depth, mark in
13) Waist Line- curve from front hip mark to hip

This is a bonus skirt draft for a plain skirt that goes well with a simple
bodice and can be as full as can fit around the doll’s waist.

Alternate Skirt

2X	Waist	X Length	=Light Gathers
3X	Waist	X Length	=Normal Gathers
4X	Waist	X Length	=Full Gathers
5X	Waist	X Length	=Lots of Gathers

Measurements Needed

Skirt Length

Skirt Width****

****Skirt width- the amount of gathers you want (see chart above)

Determine skirt length

Multiply waist measurement by how full you want the skirt to be (see
chart)

Draw 1 skirt length line

Square out full skirt width from top and bottom

Draw opposite skirt length line

Pattern Drafting Crash Course-Child Bodice

sued — Sun, 11 Jul 2010 20:00:09 +0000

Here is the start of the actual drafts. You will need to reference the Miniature Draft Chart for the ease necessary for the draft. Right now I am waiting for the Miniature Draft Chart to post and will update the links to it after it does!

Measurements Needed
Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart
Full Length – Front	Back	Waist Arc
Shoulder Slope		Side Seam Length
Across Shoulder		Side Seam Allowance
Center Length – Front	Back	Mid-armhole Mark
Ease


1) Full Length- a straight line the length of your full length measurement	2) Across Shoulder- from the top of the full length line across the amount of your across shoulder measurement	3) Guideline- square down approximately 1/2 of the full length amount	4) Center Length- measure from the bottom of the full length line up and square in approximately 1/2 of across shoulder measurement

5) Shoulder Slope-from bottom corner to guideline	6) Shoulder- from tip of shoulder slope to across shoulder	7) shoulder to center length guideline and bisected (for bisect amount see Miniature Draft Chart)	8 ) Neck Curve Part B- from partway along previously squared line touching tip of bisect to almost center front. Leave 1/4″ square with center front line.

9) Waist- Formula: waist arc + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart)	10) Side Seam -square up from waist side seam length	11) Mid-armhole Mark-measure from shoulder tip to top of side seam line and divide in 1/2. Mark out (see Miniature Draft Chart)	12) Armhole Curve-connect shoulder tip, end of mid-armhole mark and top of side seam in a curve, maneuvering your French curve until it fits.

13) Waist- Formula: waist arc + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart)	14) Center Back Full Length- a straight line the length of your full length measurement	15) Across Back Shoulder- from the top of the full length line across the amount of your across shoulder measurement	16) Guideline- square down approximately 1/2 of the full length amount

17) Center Back Length- Measure from the bottom of the full length line up and square in approximately 1/2 of across shoulder measurement	18) Shoulder Slope-from bottom corner to guideline	19) Shoulder-from tip of shoulder slope to across shoulder	20) Neck Curve Part A- squared down from shoulder to center length guideline and bisected (for bisect amount see Miniature Draft Chart)

21) Neck Curve Part B- from partway along previously squared line touching tip of bisect to almost center front. Leave 1/4″ square with center front line.	22) Mid-armhole Mark- measure from shoulder tip to top of side seam line and divide in 1/2. Mark out (see Miniature Draft Chart)	23) Armhole Curve- connect shoulder tip, end of mid-armhole mark and top of side seam in a curve, maneuvering your French curve until it fits.	24) Mark side seam allowance to either side of side seam line

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Miniatures Chart Measurements

sued — Sat, 10 Jul 2010 20:00:28 +0000

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Miniatures Chart Measurements

Miniature Doll Chart
The chart on this page is a list of all the measurement amounts for places within the drafting instructions that say ‘see chart’. It is divided so that you can find the right measurement for your size doll that you may currently be working with and use the correct numbers for the step you are on. Most are for all the different types of dolls but one or two are for specifically just lady dolls or just babies and say so in the doll column. The chart is for just the drafts of the basic blocks – bodice, sleeve, skirt, and pants for the lady, child, baby and man sections in section I. Separate charts will be in later sections for other measurements as needed.
Pattern Piece	Doll Size	Measurement	Amount
Bodice	6-10″	Ease	3/16
	1:12 or 1″ Scale		1/8
	1:24 or 1/2 Scale		1/16
Skirt	6-10″	Skirt Ease	1/4
	1:12 or 1″ Scale		1/4
	1:24 or 1/2 Scale		1/8
Pants	6-10″	Pant Ease	1/4
	1:12 or 1″ Scale		1/4
	1:24 or 1/2 Scale		1/8

Convert from Fractions to MM

sued — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 20:00:01 +0000

This chart and a full conversion tool can be found on http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-cminch.htm I thank this site for having the information I needed for this tutorial!

Due to the many requests I’ve had during classes on information about metrics vs standard measuring I decided that a tutorial was necessary for measuring in metrics as it is more accurate for very small dolls.

To use the chart found at the link:

Fractions are obvious I would guess.
The decimal was found by dividing 1 by the number after the / so 1 divided by 64 gives you the .0156.
The MM was found by multiplying by 2.54. To read the MM section correctly you read after the decimal as mm and before the . as CM. Thus 1.3 cm is 1 centimeters and 3 millimeters.
My books and other drafting tutorials are written for standard thus this is to help convert the fractions to a more manageable format. When reading a long MM measurement such as 25.7969 you will want to round the .7969 to .8 thus 25 cm plus 8 mm is what you will find your measurement will have to be for 1 1/64″

Sues Tiny Costumes Tutorials » Tutorials

Quick & easy tip

Related Reading:

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Glossary Terms

Related Reading:

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Truing Up Your Patterns

Related Reading:

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Torso Draft

Related Reading:

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Sleeve

Related Reading:

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Pants Child

Related Reading:

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Skirt Children

Related Reading:

Pattern Drafting Crash Course-Child Bodice

Related Reading:

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Miniatures Chart Measurements

Related Reading:

Convert from Fractions to MM

Related Reading: